Vent-A-Hood

Parts, Technical Support, Customer Service - Shady Oak Distributing - 888-933-6529 | Info@shadyoakdist.com

 

A: Baffles and mesh filters become barriers to airflow, and/or allow grease to pass through. The video below explains the centrifugal filtration difference!

A: It's unlikely that the set screw is missing, though it may seem like it because the knob keeps falling off and you can't see the threads of the screw when you look at the underside of the knob.

Q: How can I tell if the set screw is still in tact?

A: Look at the underside of the knob. If you see the metal tab shown in the picture below, then the set screw is in tact. Use a 1.5mm hex wrench to adjust the knob on the base of the switch and - Voila! - "No more knob in the frying pan!"

A: If the metal tab is missing, give us a call and we'll get you set up with a new knob - 888-933-6529

A: Be sure to use an 1/8" allen wrench (long, T-handle style works best) to loosen the set screw. In instances where the wheel has not been removed in a long time (a year or more), this set screw can be extremely difficult to loosen. The wheel hub may be sprayed with common penetrating oil such as WD-40®, or heated up with a hair-dryer to loosen sticky/hardened cooking grease.

A: If removing the wheels proves to be too difficult while they are still mounted in the canopy, the motor and wheel may be removed as one unit (applicable to Magic Lung hoods - not V-Line/Power Lung) by removing the 3 mounting screws that hold the motor plate in place, and unplugging the quick-connect motor plug. With the wheel and motor down on the countertop or table, it may be easier to work on.

 

A: The blower wheel may need to be repositioned on the motor shaft. Newer motors have a "backstop" (see image below) preventing the wheel from being installed too far back, but if you have an older-style motor the wheel maybe be positioned too far back and may be rubbing on the motor plate screws (see image). If too far forward, it may rub the inside of the blower housing. Check out Section C regarding Magic Lung Cleaning.

A: More often than not, this is not a malfunction of the hood/motor/blower and sometimes there is no (or very little) audible difference between high/low. Here are a couple things you can try to test this function:

Test 1: Remove the shield, then remove the housing to expose the wheel(s). Make sure your hands and other objects are clear of the wheels. Turn the unit on low, then switch to high. With the wheels exposed, and lack of air pressure, the difference between high/low will be more apparent. If you can then hear the difference between low and high, then all is good. If something still doesn't seem right, proceed with the following tests; there could be blockage or restriction of airflow within your ductwork.

•If you have more than one wheel/blower, make sure the WHITE wheel and motor (the motor itself is not visible at this stage, but the motor plate with the 3 screws holding it in place is, the MOTOR PLATE is painted to indicate its position) is on the RIGHT and the black wheel and motor on the left. If they are reversed the airflow is reversed - not good!

Test 2: While the housing is lowered from Test 1, check that the polymer damper(s) lift freely from the housing: While the unit is off, they should simply rest on top of the housing at a 45º angle. They should not be pushed down through the housing opening. Be sure the damper lifts freely and opens completely vertically.

Test 3: Reinstall the housing (but keep the shield off) and turn the unit on. While looking through the wheel hole of the housing, make sure the internal polymer damper opens completely and freely on both low/high, just as it did when you had the housing down in front of you. If this is restricted in any way, then the motor will likely try to compensate and operate on high speed at all times, hence only one speed would be heard.

Test 4: If the internal polymer damper(s) open completely during operation, check the exit damper (wall louver or roof jack) on the outside of your house. Depending on the length of your duct run, this damper may or may not open absolutely completely, but it should be moving freely, without resistance or obstruction. Furthermore, there should never be a screen on this damper. Screens, no matter how large the webbing, restrict airflow considerably and inhibit the function of a Vent-A-Hood centrifugal range hood, specifically. Air restriction can prompt the motor(s) to overcompensate by operating on high at all times. If restriction is severe enough, the motor may overheat and automatically turn off until it cools back down as a safety measure.

Test 5: For the reasons above, duct work should never be reduced, flex pipe should never be used. Check out our Installation Do's and Don't's for examples, which may be contributing to inadequate performance of your hood.

If you need further explanation or help on any of these steps please do not hesitate to call us at Shady Oak!

[Magic Lung] Remove and Replace wheels/motors

A: More often than not, this is not a malfunction of the hood/motor/blower and sometimes there is no (or very little) audible difference between high/low. Here are a couple things you can try to test this function:

Test 1: Remove the grease pan. You may turn the hood on low then high with the grease pan still removed - KEEP HANDS AND OBJECTS CLEAR OF THE ROTATING WHEEL! If you can hear the difference between low and high, all is good.  If something still doesn't seem right, proceed with the following tests; there could be blockage or restriction of airflow within your ductwork.

Test 2: While the grease pan is lowered from Test 1, locate the polymer damper at the top, back of the blower box. Ensure that it opens and closes freely when hood is in operation - KEEP HANDS AND OBJECTS CLEAR OF THE ROTATING WHEEL! Turn the hood off and remove the damper. Is there an audible difference between high and low now?

Test 3: If the internal polymer damper opens completely during operation, check the exit damper (wall louver or roof jack) on the outside of your house. Depending on the length of your duct run, this damper may or may not open absolutely completely, but it should be moving freely, without resistance or obstruction. Furthermore, there should never be a screen on this damper. Screens, no matter how large the webbing, restrict airflow considerably and inhibit the function of a Vent-A-Hood centrifugal range hood, specifically. Air restriction can prompt the motor(s) to overcompensate by operating on high at all times. If restriction is severe enough, the motor may overheat and automatically turn off until it cools back down as a safety measure.

Test 4: For the reasons above, duct work should never be reduced, flex pipe should never be used. Check out our Installation Do's and Don't's for examples, which may be contributing to inadequate performance of your hood.

If you need further explanation or help on any of these steps please do not hesitate to call us at Shady Oak! Click here for written cleaning instructions.

[K-Series/V-Line/Power Lung] Remove and Replace wheel/motor

A: Usually, no. The SensaSource® technology automatically switches the two-speed motor from low to high speed once the canopy reaches a certain temperature. This is a safety and efficiency measure. The blower must be working at 250 cfm or higher in order to trap grease vapor within the housing, preventing it from passing through to the duct work.

A: No, the hood needs to be turned on manually. The white dual-speed motor (single blower or right side of dual blower) may only go from low to high, not on from off. Likewise, the black single-speed motor (left side of a dual blower) will not turn on from off or change speeds, because it is a single-speed motor.

  1. Choose a Vent-A-Hood (VAH) Magic Lung® product, first and foremost. A VAH 300 cfm range hood works as efficiently as the leading competitor's 450 cfm hood. And 600 cfm VAH is equivalent to 900 cfm of the other guys. So, you're able to remove air contaminants more effectively, at a lower cfm rating, with VAH Magic Lung®.
  2. Supersize your canopy! This 3-minute video explains why canopy size is important.
  3. If the threat of make-up air is giving you cold feet, understand that it doesn't have to break the bank! Shady Oak has partnered with EP Sales, Inc. to offer a concise, easy-to-understand solution by Thermolec. Contact Shady Oak to explore your options.

A: Yes! Scroll through our installation Do's and Don'ts page, and check out the quick video below!

A: No. The Vent-A-Hood range hoods that use centrifugal filtration are fire-safe! No need for periodic cleaning of duct work like with those other baffle-filtered hoods. However, you'll want to be sure to clean the internal parts of the hood. We have both print and video instructions!

A: One explanation would be that the motor overheated and then shut off as a fail-safe measure.

Q: Why did the motor overheat?

A: There may be a blockage or restriction of airflow at some point along your duct run. Is the external damper (the one at the exit of your house) or the internal damper (within the hood canopy) opening fully and freely? Is the duct work the appropriate, recommended size to accommodate the airflow? See the installation guide for proper duct sizes for your particular hood. Also, check out our installation do's and don'ts page for specific examples.

A: Another explanation could be a malfunction of the SensaSource thermostat. Magic Lung and Power Lung hoods are equipped with a thermostat that automatically turns the 2-speed motor from low to high when the temperature threshold is reached. The malfunction, though uncommon, could be if the motor is turning off, rather than kicking up to high speed.

Test your SensaSource: While leaving your stove top OFF, turn your hood on low, hold an ignited lighter up to the SensaSource module and your hood should kick up to high speed after several seconds. Remove the flame, and the hood should go back down to low speed after it has cool down. If the hood shuts off rather than bumping up to high speed, then the SensaSource likely needs to be replaced. Give us a call, we can help!

A: Click here! We have a whole bunch of additional resources at your fingertips. If you don't see what you're looking for, please contact us at Shady Oak. We're more than happy to help in any way we can.

A: Check out our Tree House where we have great prices on display, discontinued, and blemished items.

A: Register here! The unit is automatically registered 90 days after it was manufactured, if you forget to register it.

A: DCE/SCC Cleaning Tutorial below

A: SCN Cleaning Tutorial below

A: Check out this quick 90-second video on what makes Scotsman's Brilliance® cuber better.

A: Check out this quick 50-second video of a Brilliance® cuber machine (SCC model) in action. The spray pattern for the Legacy cuber (DCE model) is essentially the same, but the internal parts (eg. the curtain and nozzles...etc) differ in appearance.

If you do not have a "healthy" spray pattern, then your cubes will not produce correctly. Contact Team Home Ice technical support for further troubleshooting.

A: If your unit is still under warranty, use the service locator to find an authorized service provider near you (see warranty registration steps above).

A: If the unit is no longer under warranty, it may be serviced by any trusted appliance repair agent, or find an authorized agent using the link above.

1: Verify your ice maker's warranty using your product's serial number - click here!

NOTE: The "Warranty Start Date" auto-populates to 90-days post-production, and warranty expiration dates will populate accordingly.

2: If the unit has not been registered, the "Registered To:" will be blank, and the unit may be registered at this time by clicking "Register" to reset the "Warranty Start Date" to actual date of installation.

Provide the home address, homeowner's name, and date of installation.

3: The expiration dates will reset according to the registration and the warranty status can then be determined. Share this information with the service agent.

A: Click here! We have a whole bunch of additional resources at your fingertips. If you don't see what you're looking for, please contact us at Shady Oak. We're more than happy to help in any way we can.

A: Check out our Tree House where we have great prices on display, discontinued, and blemished items.

Caliber

Contact Shady Oak for more information | info@shadyoakdist.com | 888-933-6529


 

A: Check out our Tree House where we have great prices on display, discontinued, and blemished items.

Urban Bonfire

Contact Shady Oak for more information | info@shadyoakdist.com | 888-933-6529


 

1. Click here! We have a whole bunch of additional resources at your fingertips. If you don't see what you're looking for, please contact us at Shady Oak. We're more than happy to help in any way we can.

2. Find a dealer near you.

3. Contact Urban Bonfire directly for more guidance and information!

A: Two great options:

1: Dekton by Cosentino, official partner of Urban Bonfire, is an ultracompact surface - great option for an outdoor application.

2: Corian® Endura™, official partner of Shady Oak Distributing, is a high-performance porcelain countertop for the ultimate in durability [and quality]. Currently available in select markets throughout the USA, including Minnesota and Wisconsin.

A: Check out our Tree House where we have great prices on display, discontinued, and blemished items.